COFFEE culture in irAN
Iran has a long historical record of coffee consumption. Coffee has been one of the favored hot beverages in Iran since the 1500s.
Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, European travelers often provided accounts regarding coffee culture in Iran, demonstrating how deeply intertwined coffee culture was with even the founding of the Safavid Empire. Building plans for the Chaharbagh of Isfahan, one of Iran’s prominent cultural centers, featured abundant surrounding coffee houses. In addition to the Chaharbagh, European traveler Jean Chardin gave an account of how the royal square of Isfahan contained a multitude of luxurious coffee houses. The fact that Safavid Persia’s most popular landmarks were surrounded by elaborate coffee houses demonstrates the intensity of coffee culture in early Safavid Persia.
Similarly, German scholar Adam Olearius, visited Safavid Persia for diplomatic purposes, and commented on the elegant nature of coffee houses. While wine taverns were typically populated by those of poor social standing, coffee and tea houses were filled with members of the upper class who engaged in pastimes such as chess and backgammon. Significantly, Olearius’ account is evidence of a growing tea culture amongst Persian elites.
As the economic, political and cultural landscape of Iran changed over the last 500 years, the cultural affinity for coffee also changed. Although the most favored hot beverage in Iran is clearly tea, coffee still holds its own among a portion of the Iranian populace. The Iranian coffee panorama constitutes a mixture of modern and traditional, much like Iran itself.
The last few decades has seen the gradual appreciation of coffee increase in Iran. The amount of establishments dedicated to coffee drinking has seen a steady increase over time, especially in larger cities like Tehran, the capital of Iran. Unfortunately, global economic sanctions placed upon Iran has had a negative impact on coffee house growth.
The exact date of the introduction of coffee in then Persia (now Iran) has never been established. Based upon the historical record, it is most probable that returning pilgrims and other merchants introduced coffee into Iran during the 1500s.
It was common during that time for coffee to be used by those Muslims practicing Sufism to assist in remaining awake as part of their overnight prayer vigils. Initially, it was thought that coffee had medicinal properties, and was used in Iran by the foremost doctors of the day. Coffee was thought to help relieve high blood pressure and headaches.
However, with the passage of time, coffee transitioned form a medicine to a favored beverage. Eventually, Qaveh Khaneh or coffee houses began to spring up throughout Iran. Originally, coffee was consumed by the upper social classes and became a popular drink during social events among higher Iranian society. Over time, coffee began gaining acceptance amongst average Iranians.
Coffee houses became hot spots for social and political discussion amongst people as well as favored venues for business meetings. Iranians are known for their cordiality and hospitality, and coffee affords them the ability to be both social and hospitable.
A series of factors caused coffee’s popularity to wane, and tea became the predominant hot drink for all classes of Iranians by the end of the 19th century, as coffee houses began serving tea to their customers. This shift remained consistent over decades until tea dominated the Iranian hot beverage market.
The shift towards tea can be principally credited to the impact of Russian and Chinese culture upon Iran. Both Russia and China were the largest global tea consumers and did much to sway Iranian drinking habits towards tea. This gave impetus within Iran towards tea as the dominant beverage, especially since Iranian tea production drove the cost of tea to remarkably lower levels and making tea more accessible to Iranian consumers.
Initially, coffee houses sprang up in Iran during the Safavid dynasty, which ruled Iran between 1501 and 1736 when they were overthrown by the Qajar Dynasty.
During this period, coffee houses served more as social centers, where people gathered to drink coffee but also to have intellectual discourse, hear religious sermons or sometimes partake in poetry recitations.
Similarly, current coffee shops in Iran act as social gathering places enticing young Iranians to gather, enjoy a good cup of coffee and discuss the social discourse of the day.
Because alcohol is not allowed in Iranian bars and clubs, coffee has become the beverage of choice when young people assemble to socialize. The Islamic Republic of Iran was established in 1979, making it illegal to partake of alcohol in public places. Hence, coffee shops became important social places where young people gather for entertainment and often serious and lively discussion.
It has been estimated that there are over 250 coffee shops in Tehran alone with continuing growth as coffee shops become more and more popular with young Iranians.
Iranians traditionally preferred espresso coffees, although preferences are changing constantly. Iranians are beginning to now favor cappuccinos and lattes as well as single origin pour over coffees.
This affinity for coffee is now extending to home consumption as French press and single pour over devices become more prevalent throughout Iran. The prospect for continued growth of coffee consumption, both in retail coffee shops and in Iranian homes seems healthy and promising.
The Covid-19 Pandemic has served to slow the growth of these shops over the past two years, as many of these coffee shops were forced to close by the Iranian government in and effort to control the spread of the virus. Iranian authorities do not favor these shops as they are breeding grounds for young Iranians to connect to the internet where the government has little control. The authorities believe that women do not strictly follow Islamic dress code in these establishments.
Despite this brief slow down, coffee shops are now back in full swing again. Iranian coffee shops are also promoting inclusivity as women were previously not allowed to frequent coffee shops due to gender segregation. Currently, women play a healthy role as roasters, baristas and owners of coffee shops.
For sure, the true meaning of coffee consumption in Iran represents much more than just casually drinking a hot beverage as a leisurely past time. Rather, while tea drinking represents traditional conventions, the popularity of coffee drinking in Iran may be representive of an element within Iran seeking a greater sense of individuality and freedom.